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Blitzkrieg Miniatures M4A3E8 “Easy 8” Model Unboxing

So about a month ago, I was turned on to a company across the pond called Blitzkrieg Miniatures. I was especially thrilled to see that they offered models in the ever elusive 1/56th scale, as to conform with the rest of my bolt action army. So, after paroozing their web store, and freshly seen Fury, I decided to add an Easy 8 to my American motor pool.

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Above is how the model arrived at my door. Nothing fancy in terms of packaging, but the model was well protected, so i really couldn’t ask for much more. The main hull of the tank was well wrapped in a medium bubble wrap very snugly, as was the main turret body. The accessories were, on the other hand just placed in a small zip lock bag. This mildly worried me off the bat as the whole model was resin cast.

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But, my worries were soon put to rest and exchanged with excitement as the model was, pardon my french, fucking BEAUTIFUL! After my initial look over, the details were stunning and there was very little clean up work to be done. This was surprising to me as I have dealt with solid cast resin models in the past that were absolute nightmares to clean and assemble *cough cough, Warlord, cough cough*.

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In no time at all the model was cleaned, assembled (all whopping 8 parts of it) and ready to start laying paint on (as it is, I have a fair amount of custom work I will be doing to it so it can accurately mirror the easy 8 in Fury, stay tuned as I will be showing this bad boy off as it gets finished).

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So all in all, I am absolutely blown away by the quality in workmanship from Blitzkrieg and will definitely be ordering more models from them in the future. For those interested, the 1/56th Sherman Easy 8 retails from Blitzkrieg Miniatures for 22 GBP (which is roughly 35 American) and, to entice you all a bit more, free worldwide shipping on everything.

For their full catalog, tap the link below and enjoy the myriad of amazing models they offer.

http://www.blitzkriegminiatures.com/

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As I said above, Ill be posting more updates on my E8 as it gets more Furry like.

Thanks for reading and thanks to Paul from Blitzkrieg for the awesome customer support! Keep gaming everyone and have a happy 2015!

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Windy City Wargaming Episode 4: Happy New Year in Review

We all hope you had a great Christmas and have a great New Year!

In this episode we sit down and talk about our year in review from where we were all the way to where we are now. We also talk about our Naughty and Nice list for 2014 (a little late, but oh well).

For Game night, we’re joined once again by our very own Izzy B. talking about Star Wars: Imperial Assault.

Special thanks to:

www.NWS-online.net

www.blitzkriegminiatures.com/

www.draxtargames.com

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Novice Tips: Large base

A problem that comes up often is a minor one, but it truly is make or break as far as completing a display quality model; how to make the base look a bit more organic and incorporating the actual models better. With this tutorial, I’ll walk you through how I bring that dynamic to my display level bases.

 

Start off with laying down a solid, moldable foundation to build upon.

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For this specific base, I wanted to use less of my Citadel technical while still achieving a muddy, earthy effect so I laid down a non-consistent layer of Tamiya modeling putty, then added the bricks after. To make the bricks seem more a part of the base as opposed to just laying on top of it, I put them into the actual putty before it dried, then used super glue to put a few more on top. This made it look a bit more like a hasty fighting position thrown together as quickly as possible.

**Some specific modeling putty can either be too expensive or hard to find for some. Drywall compound is very cost effective and much easier to find.

 

Next, begin building on that foundation. The models I will be placing on the base have smaller bases on them already, so will lay down a layer of Citadel Technical: Strickland Mud on top of the dried putty foundation. Before this dries, I placed the model into the undried foundation, leaving a “notch” to place the model once the foundation is dried. I also put some tire tracks for the machine gun and another notch for the third model.

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Another thing to keep in mind when you’re adding scenery such as sand bags or, in this case, bricks, be sure to build around them with the foundation to make it look almost sunken into the ground. It will make for a more organic appearance.

 

Next, I added some detail to the bricks. This is where the base was starting to look like an actual base.

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Here is where building around the bricks with the foundation began to pay off. The front of the base is now starting to have that sunken, grungy earthy feel to it that’s really quite gratifying.

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Once the bricks were painted and dried, I washed the base with Citdel Agrax Earthshade and drybrushed with Vallejo’s German Camo Beige. I made sure to leave extra wash in the extra low points of the base, like the bottom and sides of the tire tracks and around the front of the bricks.

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Now it’s truly starting to come together.

Here comes the part that may feel like a step backwards, so don’t get discouraged. I added the first model to the base, but there’s still a bit more basework to be done.

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This model is a pewter model with a small base already on it, but it fits right onto the large base because I stamped it into the foundation. But, the base stands out a bit and seems quite out of place. It’s an easy fix. Just like with the bricks, take some more of the foundation and build around the model base.

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Lay down a wash and drybrush the new patch and it blends right in with the rest of the base. Now, the model truly looks like its part of the base. His feet are almost sunk into the mud.

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Fortunately, the gunner won’t need any foundation built around him, but the loader will be because it has another small base. but it will be another quick fix; lay some more foundation, wash and drybrush.

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Here’s where everything has finally come together. From here, all I had to do was add an ammo can.

 

 

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-Mad Dog, out!

 

 

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Windy City Wargaming Episode 3: Hobby Hacks & Merry Xmas!

In this Episode, the hosts Mark and Chris talk Hobby organization and with the coming holidays, pass along some great gamer gift ideas.

Also tune in for an interview with Dan Zedan, owner of Draxtar games in Batavia. Come and hang with us on Saturday, December 13th, it’ll be a fun day.

www.draxtargames.com

www.nws-online.net

Enjoy!

WCWG team

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Unboxing the Rubicon Models Panzer III

I recently received my Rubicon Models Panzer III Mid War box that I had picked up for a very reasonable price at NWS Online. Since I had not seen, any reviews for any of the products from Rubicon I decided to write up a quick unboxing of the kit and will follow up with a build review, once I have it together.

First Impressions

Opening up the box was a routine matter at this point in my career of new kits. However, as with any new kit I still become a little child that starts bouncing around in his seat in anticipation.

The box looks great, professional graphics on the front and back. It is plastered with the typical “Not assembled and not painted” notices all over the box. Sometime I get the feeling that the manufactures are apologizing for not building or painting the model for me, but for me, that is the whole reason I gave you my hard-earned money. I love the hobby.

The Guts of the Kit

The kit consists of three sprues, a waterslide decal sheet, and a four-page instruction manual.

Getting down and taking a close look at the sprues, I am quite pleased with my initial inspection. The mold lines are clean and should not be an issue to clean up and the detail is quite good.

There are some noticeable differences between a Warlord Games’ resin kit and the Rubicon plastic one. Below you can see a quick snap of a side by side of the two kits. My primed Warlord model on the left and the Rubicon on the right. The most noticeable difference is the depth of the details. The Warlord model has the detail protruding more from the surface of the model than the Rubicon does. Does this really change my opinion on the model; no. Will this affect the outcome of the final product; I do not believe so. My only thought is that if there details are less pronounced on the Rubicon model compared to its Warlord counterpart, will the details get lost while the model is on the game board.

The Rubicon model does have more fine detailing work around the panel lines, a couple spare wheels on the side and a different arrangement of tools.

At this stage, I believe the two kits are comparable.

The decal sheet does have more than enough numbers to accurately tag this vehicle for either DAK or one of the European fronts. I am very excited because I can use the decals that I will not use on the Rubicon model to tag my two other Panzer III’s from Warlord because Warlord appears to always be out of stock on the red vehicle numbers that I am after.

I did notice that the DAK palm tree decals do actually have the swastika on them. The only reason I mention this is that on a recent podcast I listed to the hosts had a small diatribe on their comfort levels of painting swastikas on the side of their tanks or if they would forgo the need to be historically accurate and omit the iconography.

That is all from me for now. I will be posting soon with a review of the assemble process for this kit.

Happy Hunting Mercenaries!
Mark

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Tabetop Live – Episode 1

This is a new podcast structure that will be released more periodically where the WCWG hosts will be recording with the community.

In this episode, Chris sits down with some local gamers at Draxtar Games in Batavia Illinois to talk 40k and does a turn by turn battle report.

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Mad Dog’s Operation Sting AAR (After Action Report)

Let me begin my report with a windy city wargaming salute to the coordinators of Operation Sting. They did a fantastic job with every facet of the tournament. From the rules to the game boards, Operation Sting was definitely not the tournament to miss. And word ’round the campfire is, they’re prepping for Adepticon.

So, as with any tournament, the storyline/campaign aspect is huge. The mission packets provided for the weekend had primary objectives based on the missions in the Bolt Action rulebook. They also provided special “secret missions” which provided each player the chance to gain up to five extra points. The part I applaud the coordinators for here is the fact that I did NOT have to reveal which secret mission I was pursuing. This aspect of the game is important because, just like any other miniature wargame, mastering sleight of hand and trickery will always ensure a swift and glorious victory. I will have to do another blog post on this later so please, stay tuned for that.

It’s Saturday morning, mission packets are issued, players are deploying their armies from their display boards and the dice are rolling for first deployment. Hands are offered to shake and a “good luck” is wished by both opponents. Now the fun begins.

The terrain was a gorgeous mix of scenic woodlands to very spacious urban towns. Each board had its own personality and mastering each one was a near impossible task. But for those who did, the roads, creeks, forests and buildings became the lifelines to securing victory.

The match ups were, much like the game itself, mostly historically accurate. I only heard of one occurrence of Allies fighting Allies. Otherwise, the entire night consisted of Allies vs. The Axis and this also added even more to the game. Unless I’m playing a Hydra themed German army, it doesn’t make much sense to be fighting another German army. As a Soviet player, I enjoyed that over the course of the weekend, I only played against the armies of Italy and Germany. Another salute to the coordinators for doing everything they could to make sure history was “preserved”.

The sportsmanship witnessed at Operation Sting was unlike anything I’ve seen. I had nothing but fantastic matches with great people who, like me, simply love the game and its history. There were a few stories of questionable conduct, but that comes with the territory of competition. Here’s another aspect that the coordinators added to the game that, in my eyes, encouraged sportsmanship and much more interesting play: Bolt Action Bingo! Mark off a square for each situation, get a full row and you’ve got yourself a prize! Some of the boxes were situations such as “eliminating a squad in hand to hand combat” and “damaging a vehicle without destroying it”. This encouraged players to truly test their mettle with their opponents and was just another addition to the tournament that made it the best I’ve ever been to.

I love to see the game growing as it is and I truly hope to see even more people at Operation Sting 2015!

Let’s all snap a sharp salute to the coordinators of Operation Sting! They’ve done a truly wonderful job and I can’t wait to see what they do at Adepticon!

Until next time, Wargamers!
Mad Dog, out!

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Windy City Wargaming – Episode 1

Welcome to WCW! In our inaugural episode we will share a little about ourselves, cover some news in the gaming world and talk table top war-gamming!

If you would like to give us your two cents please email us here

If you would like to inquire about becoming a sponsor please click HERE!

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Completed – German Sd.Kfz 234/2 “Puma”

This was a fun, and unexpected project. I wanted to brush the dust off of my airbrush skills before I worked on something serious.

However, once I got paint flowing though the brush it just wouldn’t stop.

This model was a couple firsts for me.

This is the first time I’ve exclusively used Vallejo’s Model air. For two reasons: 1) I had all the right colors due to my recent purchase of Vallejo’s German Camouflage AFV kit, and 2) the whole goal was to warm up the ol’ airbrush

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This was the first time I stuck with a weathering plan. Typically I experiment on my personal models. This project utilized a Vallejo Model wash and a secret weapon weathering powder for the exhaust vents and the soot on the main gun.

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First time utilizing decals, I’m typically a hand paint everything kind off guy, but since I was going for a more historically accurate project. I used Vallejo’s gloss varnish to prep the surface of the model, then micro sol & micro set to finish of the decals.

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I plan to utilize Vallejo’s crackle medium on my next vehicle for a weathering effect.

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